CELEBRATE!

PARIS FOR NEW YEAR’S EVE
The City of Lights welcomes the New Year with citywide festivities. The traditions include papillottes, chocolates or other candies whose wrapping “pops” when you pull it open. And speaking of pops, fireworks are permitted throughout the city on New Year’s Eve and begin to go off as evening falls.

For visitors who wish to witness the holiday en masse, the Champs Elysées is the place to be and the crowds begin to gather around 9 p.m. Champagne and sparkling wine flows freely, the traditional cheek-to-cheek kiss marks the midnight hour, as does the spectacle of the glittering Eiffel Tower which can be seen from many spots on the famous avenue.

On January 9, the store sales begin… Stay tuned!

The Chocolatine staff is celebrating the holidays and will return with news for the New Year on Tuesday, January 5. We wish you and your family warm and wonderful holidays and a New Year of good health, happiness and prosperity.

JOYEUX NOEL & BONNE ANNÉE!

PARIS – A December to Remember

TAKE A WHIRL OVER PARIS
La Grande Roue (The Big Wheel) is the tall Ferris wheel that puts the entire city of Paris at your feet. It’s a wonderful evening treat during the holidays when you can see the lights along the Champs Elysées and in other neighborhoods. Hop on at Place de la Concorde anytime between 10:30 a.m. and midnight. Cost: €8

SONGS FOR THE SEASON
The wonderful Moscow Monastery Choir performs in churches around Paris between Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve. Here is the schedule:

• Dec. 25th at 3pm: Eglise Notre Dame de l’Assomption
(16th arr. Bois de Boulogne)
• Dec. 25th at 5:30pm: Oratoire du Louvre
(1st arr. rue Saint-Honoré)
• Dec. 26th: Eglise de St Louis en l’Ile
(4th arr. Ile St. Louis)
• Dec. 27th: Eglise Notre Dame des Blancs Manteaux
(4th arr. le Marais)
• Dec. 31st: The American Cathedral of Paris
(8th arr. Avenue George V)

THE GIFT OF FRANCE!
If you’re wondering what to give a special Francophile someone, a subscription to the beautiful FRANCE Magazine is sure to elicit a grateful Oo La la! Published quarterly, by the French-American Cultural Foundation, the publication presents in-depth feature stories about people and places, food and wine, and the latest trends throughout France, all illustrated by superb photography.
To take advantage of a special holiday subscription offer, go to www.francemagazine.org

PARIS – HOLIDAY HAPPENINGS

TEMPTATIONS AWAIT AT NEIGHBORHOOD CHRISTMAS MARKETS The festive and fragrant seasonal markets of Paris are not to be missed by visitors enjoying the holidays in the city. Stalls brim with handmade ornaments and decorations, unusual handcrafted gifts and regional edible goodies. Here’s a list of some of the best-known in Paris:

• Christmas Market on the Avenue des Champs-Elysées
This is the largest Christmas market in the city and stretches from the Champs-Elysées roundabout to the Place de la Concorde.

• Christmas Market and Santa's Village at Saint-Sulpice

• Christmas Market and Santa's Village at place Saint-Germain-des-Prés

• Christmas Market at the Place des Abbesses, Montmartre

• Christmas Market at the Montparnasse Tower, in front of the Gare Montparnasse, facing the tower.

MUSEUMS –– SPECIAL HOURS & EVENTS

• The Museé d’Orsay – open late Thursdays until 9.45pm

• Le Louvre – open until 10 p.m. on Wednesday and Friday evenings. Admission is free on the first Sunday of every month.

• The Rodin Museum offers free tours to the public at 1:30 every Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday, and on the first and third Saturdays of the month. (A $5 admission donation is suggested to enter the Museum)

FASHION SHOW IN EVERGREEN!

CHRISTMAS TREES SPORT HAUTE COUTURE
Students of the world’s oldest fashion school, ESMOD have designed “tree couture” for 40 gorgeous, glittering and glamorous Christmas trees, which are showcased at the Hôtel Intercontinental Le Grand. Visitors can wander through the lobby and public spaces of the hotel to admire the trees at their leisure. The display is on until the end of January.
Hotel l’InterContinental Paris Le Grand 2, rue Scribe


PARIS FOR THE BIDDING Drouot Auction House
Monday, December 14

The world-famous auction house is featuring an amazing selection of Parisian memorabilia, including a Champs Elysées street lamp and an Art Nouveau newspaper kiosk. The centerpiece is a 24-foot-high section of spiral staircase from the Eiffel Tower, hailed as the largest piece ever to come up at auction. More portable items will include numerous paintings of street scenes, from the 19th century to the present, along with books, old souvenirs and maps of Paris. Visitors are welcome to come and look –– this may well be one of the more fascinating collections of Paris on display anywhere!

The Sale begins at 2 p.m. Monday. Viewings on Saturday, Dec. 12th from 11 a.m. – 6 p.m. and Monday, Dec. 14th from 11a.m. to noon.
Drouot-Richelieu, 9 rue Drouot (near the Opera)

BOOK EIFFEL TOWER VISITS ONLINE!

Finally – no more waiting in line! Visitors to Paris can now book their visit to the Eiffel Tower online and just show up at the date and time they have chosen to visit. The online tickets have no additional surcharge, and can be purchased for either the Second Floor platform or all the way to the top of the tower.

Prices: Adults: €8; Ages 12-14: €6.4; ages 4-11: €4
Go to: http://ticket.toureiffel.fr

L’ÉCLAIREUR’S NEWEST SHOPPING SENSATION
For those who want their shopping to be a conceptual and artistic experience, then the newest L’Éclaireur store in the Marais is not to be missed. Hundreds of hanging beams, walls covered in video screens, and an international designer’s Who’s Who of fashion and interior décor, artworks, accessories, and perfumes provide the WOW factor. Designer name-dropping (both classic and avant-garde) includes: Lanvin, Balmain, Gianni Barbato, Dries Van Noten, and Koi, to name just a few. Other stores are located on the Champs Élysées, Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Place des Victoires and Rue Malher.

40 Rue de Sévigné, in the Marais (4th arr.) • 33 (0)1 48 87 10 22

EXCLUSIVE PROVENCE - July 2010

L’OCCITANE, WINE & CHOCOLATE
July 4 – 8, 2010 Bonjours! We at Chocolatine are very excited to offer an exclusive four-day excursion to beautiful Provence. This tour is available only to eight lucky guests, so we wanted to put the word out early!

With our extensive list of expert contacts in the region, we have designed a unique Provence experience. Over the course of four days privileged guests will be treated to the very best the region has to offer, indulging all five senses.

The centerpiece of the excursion is a day in the village of Manosque, home to the celebrated L’OCCITANE EN PROVENCE. Olivier Baussan, the company’s founder will join the group for a tour. Everyone will have a chance to create their own special product before savoring a picnic in the blooming lavender fields.

The tour includes VIP transfers and four nights accommodation in a gorgeous hideaway villa surrounded by rolling hills and vineyards. Guests will enjoy prestigious wine tastings, meals prepared by private chefs (including a 2-star Michelin chef), and a hands-on pastry workshop and tasting at the Chocolate School of Valrhona.

PLEASE CONTACT CHOCOLATINE FOR MORE DETAILS.

BRING ON THE FÊTES!

It’s hard to believe we’re rounding the corner into the 2009 holiday season! Paris, and every other city and town in France, loves to celebrate and there is no more magical, or romantic, time of year than now to be part of the scene.

SHOPPING DE-LIGHTS
December lends a special glow to the shop windows of Paris, which really does live up to its “City of Lights” appellation at this time of year. Among the best and brightest:

• The department store, Printemps and the Galleries Lafayette
• Au Bon Marché (which lights up its building exterior)
• BHV - Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville (one of Paris’ most historic department stores), famous for the animated dolls and puppets that frolic in the store’s windows

ILLUMINATIONS
Many of Paris’ avenues and neighborhoods sport beautiful holiday illuminations. Our favorites include: The Champs Elysées • Avenue Montaigne • Place Vendôme • Rue de la Paix • Rue de Castiglione • Rue Saint-Honoré • the top of Montmartre


TAKE NOTE:
• The Paris Catacombs are closed at the moment – they were vandalized & the repairs are most likely to last until early 2010…

• The Picasso Museum, Paris, closed for renovations until early 2012

• D’Orsay Museum – certain galleries will be closed, starting in December, while the impressionist exhibits are being reorganized

HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL OF YOU AND YOUR FAMILIES! We’ll be back with the blog next week, Tuesday, December 1.

TASTES OF PARIS

SPECIAL PLACES TO DINE
When I was in Paris recently, I had the pleasure of scouting out both new and classic restaurants. Following is a list of some of my favorites, and ones which clients are sure to enjoy.

• Bistro Les Papilles – Our tour guides brought me to this wonderful spot (its name translates into “taste buds”!), which offers a wide range of fine wines, bistro-style cuisine served in copper pots, cured meats at lunch, and a fantastic four-course tasting menu.
30 Rue Gay Lussac

• Les Fous de L’Ile – Located on the Ile Saint-Louis, one of my favorite neighborhoods in Paris, this is also one of my favorite lunch places in the city. It’s modern, decorated with all kinds of hen and rooster motifs, and serves delicious dishes.
33 rue des Deux Ponts

• Bistro Les Petits Carreaux – I had a drink at this charming bistro in the Les Halles shopping district. Pssst: they’re famous for their traditional onion soup topped with bubbling gruyere!
17 Rue des Petits Carreaux

• Terre et Soleil – Lovely place, serving excellent Italian dishes, including homemade pizzas and pastas. You can also take these to go.
20 Rue Tiquetonne

• Madrigal – Chic, modern, in the heart of the Champs Elysees, this a great place for people-watching over one of their fabulous cocktails.
32 Avenue des Champs Elyseés

• Au Vieux Paris – Some local Parisian friends brought me to this historic restaurant, just around the corner from Notre Dame on the Ile de la Cité. Situated in an old 1512 residence, the décor is sumptuous, complete with rich draperies, tented ceilings, and exposed stonework. This is perfect for a romantic evening, and the food, made with organic ingredients, is heavenly and classically old world French.
24 Rue Chanoinesse

TIFFANY IN PARIS

With the holidays on their way, over the next couple of weeks we’ll be posting information about special December events, as well as some practical information travelers will appreciate knowing.

TIFFANY EXHIBIT illuminates the season! Museé du Luxembourg. Through January 17, 2010.

This is a wonderful exhibition that no visitor to Paris should miss. Louis Comfort Tiffany, Couleurs et Lumière (Colors and Light), showcases nearly 160 masterpieces by the famed glass artist (son of the famous jeweler). This is a unique opportunity to view spectacular Tiffany stained glass windows, brought to Paris in pieces and reassembled at the Museum. In addition, vases, lamps, jewels, mosaics, and drawings and watercolors offer an overview of this passionate artist and his huge contribution to the world of decorative arts.

DETAILS: The museum is open daily (late on Mondays and Fridays). For reservations: Go to the museum website: http://www.museeduluxembourg.fr/ and click on “reservations.” Musée du Luxembourg, 19 rue de Vaugirard

And speaking of museums...
PARIS MUSEUMS: HOLIDAY CLOSINGS

•The Louvre – closed Dec. 25th & Jan. 1st
•Musée D’Orsay – closed Dec. 25th & Jan 1st – closes at 5pm on Dec. 24th & 31st
•Versaille – closed on Dec. 25th & Jan. 1st

LOVELY LILLE!

During my travels last month I spent some time in northern France in the beautiful city of Lille, situated near the Belgian border. Beautiful architecture, streets that wind through its charming Old Quarter (Vieux Lille), and numerous excellent restaurants are all reasons to visit.

Here are three restaurants I recommend:

•L’Huitriere
An old and famous restaurant in Vieux Lille, it’s an easy place to spot with its front covered in painted tiles depicting a fishing scene. This is a one-star Michelin establishment with a beautiful dining room. Oysters (huitre means oyster) and fish are the specialties here – its signature dish is the turbot poché – turbot baked in a potato crust with butter.
Tip: If you don’t have a reservation, clients can take advantage of the restaurant’s mid-week business lunch menu, excellent value for money.
3 Rue Chats Bossus
Reservations: 03 20 55 43 41

•Brasserie La Chicorée
I had a very pleasant lunch here – moules with cream sauce (delicious!) & frites (mussels and fries, very traditional). Just look for the Visitor Center on Place Rihour and the restaurant is across the way. Lively atmosphere, and in warm weather, guests can enjoy the terrace.

•Le Sebastopol
I stopped here to meet the owner of this classic, one-star Michelin restaurant even though it was closed, and he showed me around the elegant dining room. A special feature is the three separate rooms where guests can dine privately (2-4 people in one, 4-10 in another and 8-20 in another).
1 Place Sébastopol
Reservations: 03 20 57 05 05

TRAVEL TIP: The Eurostar train stops in Lille, so it’s an easy destination to reach if clients are coming from London to Paris, or vice versa.

BEST OF BORDEAUX…Cont’d.

So many wonderful ways to enjoy Bordeaux – one of my favorite cities and wine regions in France.

I am excited to report that I met with a new contact there, a superb sommelier who will happily set up wine tastings for guests of any level. These can be arranged for 2 hours, a half day or even a full day. Contact Chocolatine.

Following is a short list of hotels, restaurants and vineyards I visited during my recent trip and highly recommend:

HOTELS:
Hotel Sources de Caudalie. I spent time with the hotel director here, sipping wine in the gorgeous garden…The hotel offers s totally unique experience surrounded by the Smith Haute Lafitte vineyards (pssst: largest wine cellar in the region!). Guests can enjoy five different types of accommodations; sumptuous spa treatments which blend the mineral waters of the local springs with grape extracts; and two excellent restaurants.

Le Logis de la Cadene – I also visited this lovely and traditional 18th-Century accommodation right in the heart of St. Emilion, perfect for those exploring the region but who also enjoy being in a small historic town.

DINING:
Café Lavinal, in Pauillac, is a great place for lunch (on the terrace in seasonal weather). For extraordinary baba au rhum pastries, visit the local boulangerie.

WINERIES (I visited several chateaux where we take clients, including):
•Chateau Mouton Rothschild
•Chateau Haut-Brion
•Chateau Pichon Longueville
•The Winery (a vineyard with a novel idea!)

PLANNING AHEAD: The 2010 Bordeaux Wine Festival, June 24-27

BEST OF BORDEAUX – PART III

NOTES FROM MY TRIP...
When I was in Bordeaux a few weeks ago, I researched some new places to share with clients traveling to this gorgeous city. Among them:

• Endless Jazz at The Regent Grand Hotel Bordeaux. We wrote about this hotel in an earlier blog (I can’t emphasize enough what a wonderful place it is. I highly recommend it after spending three nights here during my area visit). I want to mention an upcoming event here: The Endless Jazz Quartet, with Camélia Ben Naceur & Alain Coyral, will offer an atmospheric evening of exceptional music by an ensemble renowned for playing the many different kinds of jazz, from be-bop to blues.

Where: The Regent Grand Hotel, Place de la Comédie, Bordeaux
When: Friday, November 13. 9:30 p.m.
Contact: +33 5 57 30 44 44

• Café Opéra – Grand Theatre de Bordeaux
Considered one of the most beautiful neo-classical buildings in Europe, the Grand Theater productions include both opera and ballet. Hour-long tours are available of the interior. I recommend having lunch at the Café Opéra inside the theater. The décor is lovely and the atmosphere reflects an old-world elegance. The menu includes a wide selection of creatively-prepared salads, fish and meat dishes at reasonable prices. You can also go just for pastry and coffee.
Grand Theatre, 2 Place de la Comédie

Next Week: More Bordeaux – vineyards, wine tasting, and great places to stay and eat!

DIJON: BEYOND MUSTARD

DIJON INTERNATIONAL & GASTRONOMIC FAIR Through November 11
Visitors to Burgundy can join the thousands of foodies who come to Dijon to indulge their senses in the 500 food and wine booths that showcase the French culinary arts. Each year another country is invited as a guest of honor and this year it’s Greece and its Mediterranean cuisine. Daily cook-offs, demonstrations, tastings, conferences, and competitions among renowned chefs and vintners are all part of the fun.

Where: Palais des Expositions et des Congrès, 3 Boulevard de Champagne, Dijon
When: Daily from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. (through November 11)
Admission: €5.20

PARIS PARFUM BOUTIQUE Maison Francis Kurkdjian
One of the world’s most celebrated perfumers (creator of dozens of fabulous scents for just about every major perfume house in the world), Francis Kurkdjian, just opened his own boutique on tiny rue d’Alger near the Tuilleries Gardens. Perfumed bubbles spray out into the street in front of its doorway. Just inside, shoppers are greeted with a cutout cityscape of Paris made from tin and gold colored metal. In addition to Kurkdjian’s personal signature fragrances, which include Aqua Universalis, APOM, and Lumière Noire (one each, for men and women), are perfumed bracelets, candles, soap bubbles, washing powders, and scented paper strips that release their fragrance upon burning. A customized perfume service is also available upon reservation.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian 5 rue d’Alger, Paris 1st

DID YOU KNOW…?
National French Week is celebrated in the U.S. from November 4 – 10. Teachers, students, Francophones and Francophiles are invited to spread the word about the beauty of the French language and the heritage of this wonderful country.

LOUIS XIV & HIS LIFE AT VERSAILLES

THE MAN AND THE KING
Versailles, through Feb. 7, 2010

The magnificent Palace of Versailles clearly indicates that The Sun King lived large. A major exhibition recently opened at the Palace showcases more than 300 works from collections around the world intended to give visitors a glimpse into the real personality of Louis XIV, as well as insight into his public image.

The “creation” of this heroic monarch is perhaps one of history’s greatest PR campaigns and highlights of the exhibition include works by painters, sculptors, and master craftsmen who contributed to his larger-than-life image.

HOURS
Palace & Exhibition: Nov. 1 to March 31: 9 a.m. – 5:30 p.m. daily (closed Mondays) Gardens: 8 a.m. – 6 p.m. (closed Mondays)
Admission: €15, includes Palace entrance and a 10-language audio guide.
Passport Ticket: €16 (Palace, grounds, Marie-Antoinette’s Estate)

TRAIN NEWS
• France’s fastest trains, the TGV, can now be booked with advance reservations online. The Web site is:
http://www.tgv-europe.com/en/home

• The Thalys trains are set to amp up the speed. As of December 13, riders can travel from Paris to Amsterdam in 3 hours, 18 minutes; Paris to Cologne in 3 hours, 14 minutes.

SPARKLING EIFFEL TOWER TURNS 120

GLITTER & GLAMOR LIGHT UP PARIS’ IRON LADY
Eiffel Tower Light Show: Every evening through December 31

Since it opened to the public at the Universal Exposition on May 15, 1889, the Eiffel Tower has been the revered icon of Paris. To honor its 120th year, the monument treats the city to a spectacular light show every evening at 8, 9, 10, and 11 p.m.

In addition to the five minutes of glittering lights Parisians have grown accustomed to each evening, there will be a special display continuing for 12 more minutes. State-of-the-art LED spotlights illuminate the Trocadero side of the Tower, presenting a magical show that symbolizes its construction. Next, colorful strobes move from level to level of the Tower, enveloping the whole edifice in rhythmic light, while images are projected onto the ground.

Traveler's Tip: Visitors can purchase a 52-page magazine especially published for the occasion in the Eiffel Tower shops and at the Paris airports.

• EXHIBIT: TALES OF THE EIFFEL TOWER

Also through December 31, 2009, a special exhibit on the Tower’s first floor presents the story of how the Eiffel Tower gained its iconic status throughout the world. More than 100 beautiful old posters, illustrations, engravings, photos, films and interactive displays lead visitors into the heart of the monument. In the Ferrié Pavilion, visitors can view nearly 300 artistic interpretations of all shapes and sizes of the Eiffel Tower. Open during regular Tower hours.

Eiffel Tower Visiting Hours: October 2009 – June 2010 Elevator: 9:30 a.m. to 11:45 (final lift at 11 p.m., 10:30 for top floor.) Stairs: 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Final admittance at 6 p.m.

BACK FROM FRANCE!

BONJOUR! I just returned from three weeks in France and will be sharing all kinds of information about my latest discoveries: shops. restaurants, bars, and exhibits. Be sure to check back Tuesdays and Thursdays. Flo

SHOE-LOVERS DREAM!
Shoe-worshipping shoppers now have a 34,500-square-foot (no pun intended) mecca devoted to 12,000 pairs of shoes (150 brands) in the Galeries Lafayette on Boulevard Haussmann. This is officially the world’s largest shoe department and comes complete with brown leather sofas for trying on the footwear, an on-staff cobbler, and a salon devoted to pedicures.

You can buy flip-flops for €10 or boots for €1,000 and there are 25 brand names that are only distributed by the Galeries. For those enamored of the slipper (did you know 20 percent of the total shoe sales in France are for slippers?), there is a large area dedicated to mules and embroidered cloth slippers, sequined clogs and charming ballet-style slippers.

The 10-story Galeries Lafayette was built in 1912 and is worth a visit just for its beautiful glass and steel dome and Art Nouveau staircase.
Hours: Mon – Sat: 9:30 until 7:30; open until 9:30 p.m. on Thursdays.

WINNING WINES BY THE GLASS
I enjoyed a very nice evening at Restaurant Victor in the 16th arrondisement (near the Trocadero) and highly recommend it for those who love fine French wines. Here you can enjoy grand crus vintages by the glass – very rare in France! And, on the first Monday of every month, the Victor offers superb vintages at cost prices. A local favorite since 1911, the restaurant was refurbished in 2005 and serves a different menu daily, based on what’s fresh and local.
Restaurant Victor 101 Bis Rue Lauriston
Tel: 01 47 27 55 07. Open Monday – Friday, lunch and dinner; Saturdays lunch only; Closed on Sundays.

SCULPTURE MASTERS ON EXHIBIT

MATISSE & RODIN EXHIBIT
Rodin Museum, Paris • 23 Oct – 28 Feb, 2010
Beginning on Friday, the work of two modern art icons will share the same space in the galleries of the Rodin Museum. Henri Matisse and Auguste Rodin were contemporaries for 17 years at the turn of the 20th century, each introducing the world to ground-breaking changes in both sculpture and drawing. An exhibition highlight is the diverse selection of Matisee sculptures, which have not been shown as a collection in nearly 35 years. Drawings and sculptures by each artist are shown side by side, illustrating both their similarities of style as well as the points where they diverge.

Musée Rodin – 79, rue de Varenne Open daily 10 a.m. – 5:45. During this special exhibit, the museum will stay open on Wednesdays until 8:45 p.m.

MAKE A NOTE:
•Visitors can buy a “Passeport” which offers one ticket to both the Rodin Museum and the Museé d’Orsay for €12 (regularly €14)

•The Paris Museum Pass – new prices! 2 days – €32;
4 days – €48; 6 days – €64.

LUNCH AT PRINTEMPS
Shoppers in Paris’ beloved department store, Printemps, can get lost for hours among the various floors and terrific sales. When hunger calls, the 6th floor Brasserie offers an excellent traditional French lunch menu and a superb setting beneath the sprawling 1924 Art Nouveau glass dome. Lunch is served Mon. – Sat. from 11:30 – 3:30.
Printemps: 66 Boulevard Haussman

PARIS: ART & FASHION NOUVEAU!

FIAC: The Ultimate Modern Art Fair October 22 – 25. Celebrating more than 30 years, FIAC (which translates into the International Fair of Contemporary Art) is a world-renowned four-day event and a highlight for Paris visitors with a love of modern art. This year three city locales will serve as stage venues for music, dance, performance art and theater:

•The Grand Palais (noon to 8 p.m.)
•The Cour Carrée at the Louvre (1 – 9 p.m.)
•Tuileries Gardens (7:30 a.m. – 7:30 p.m.).

Noteworthy are two special events:
• On Tuesday, Oct. 20, a stupendous series of choreographed fireworks will be set off at 10 p.m. in the Tuileries. Visitors can view this dazzling display from the Lemonnier Terrace.
• On Saturday, Oct. 24, also in the Tuileries, dance performers will interpret the gestures of famous painted subjects and sculptures. The short program begins at 4 p.m. at the pond near the northern exit.

UNIQLO Opens its French doors
Trendy, colorful, practical, fun and moderately priced, the Japanese fashion favorite, Uniqlo, just opening their third global flagship store on Rue Scribe in the lively Opera District of Paris. The multi-storied shop covers 23,000 square feet of bold and bright retail space and offers a vast selection of casual and hip clothing for those with a youthful outlook. With an eye toward eco-consciousness, Uniqlo offers special bins where customers can bring in used clothing for recycling.

15 rue Scribe. Open daily 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. (Thursdays until 9 p.m.)

CHOCOLATE PARADISE

SALON DU CHOCOLAT Paris, October 14 – 18
Who else but the French would dream up a 5-day chocolate-smothered extravaganza that combines history, workshops, dances, demonstrations, and…a chocolate fashion show set to opera!

Here are just a few of the highlights visitors of all ages can indulge in:

• In the Chocosphere, lectures and tastings are offered hourly by eminent specialists. Some of the fascinating topics include “Chocolate Maker: A Job, A Passion; “Women and Chocolate;” and “Discover Your Chocolate Identity.”

• In the Cocoa Show, cocoa-producing country representatives integrate the cultures where the prized pod is cultivated with the related traditions that have been passed down through history. Mexico, Venezuela, and Brazil will present local dances, chants, and rites and rituals connected to the cocoa tree and its end product.

• Cooking demonstrations are a favorite event, and the list of renowned chocolate makers, pastry chefs, and chocolate confection wizards include Executive Chef Lenôtre and Ecôle de Cuisine, Alain Ducasse. More than forty chocolate recipes will be magically created for those in attendance. Among them: Milky Chocolate Fingers with Bergamot; Chocolate Canellonis Perfumed with Vanilla; Chocococurry Macaroons; and a pairing of Alsace Wines with chocolates of the world.

• In Chocoland petit aspiring chefs don chef hats and aprons to decorate their own personal chocolate confections.

• The Opera Fashion Show – the centerpiece of the event, and a benefit that has contributed to more than 50 children’s charities – occurs every day at 5 p.m., and this year marks its 15th anniversary. The pageant (a fairy tale performed as opera) is nothing less than a fusion of fashion and chocolate, combining the talents of some of France’s leading designers with its top chocolatiers. International celebrities walk the runway in stunning chocolate “couture.”

WHEN: October 14 – 18
WHERE: Paris Expo, Port de Versailles
HOURS: Daily, 10 a.m. – 7 p.m. Open Friday, October 16 until 9 p.m.
COST: Adults: 12 euros; Children 3-6, 6 euros.

WEB SITE: www.salonduchocolat.fr

CELEBRATING BORDEAUX – PART II

VINORAMA
OK, we know the main reason travelers come to Bordeaux has something to do with the wine. The beauty and history of the city alone are worth a visit, but really it’s the wine that draws travelers here. At the fabulous Vinorama wine museum located in the cellar of specialist wine merchants, Ryst-Dupeyron, visitors will be introduced to Bordeaux’s fabled vintages. Through fascinating multilingual audio-visual presentations that include costumed wax figures, the history of this grape growing region unfolds, from Roman times through the 19th century. The museum also houses a wine school and hour-long tasting sessions can be arranged with on-site experts. 12 Cours du Médoc. Open Tuesday – Friday 2 – 6:30 p.m.; Saturday 10:30 – 12:30 and 2:30 to 6:30. Adult tickets: €5.40

STAY: The Hotel Regent Bordeaux
With its premier location, just across from Bordeaux’s Grand Theatre, and its recent full renovation, this 5-star grand hotel offers some of the most luxurious accommodations in the city. The rooms are spacious yet cozy, the furnishings both classic and nouveau, and views take in the gorgeous architecture of this elegant city. The Regent also boasts a gourmet seafood restaurant.
2-5, Place de la Comédie

DINE: Le Gabriel
Le Gabriel, situated in the center of Bordeaux’s Place de la Bourse and overlooking the Garonne River, offers three separate stories and three experiences. The first floor is home to the intimate Bar le Dix, serving light dishes and a full bar menu. The 80-guest Le Bistro du Gabriel offers a river view from the second floor and superb traditional brasserie cuisine. Restaurant Le Gabriel occupies the third story and seats only 30 fortunate guests who feast on traditional yet innovative flavors while enjoying an elegant ambiance and views of the river and fountain below. Chef Adamski is Michelin-starred and winner of numerous culinary awards. 10, Place De La Bourse

CELEBRATING BORDEAUX – PART I

UNESCO'S FIRST URBAN WORLD HERITAGE SITE
Beautiful Bordeaux–capital of the Aquitaine in the southwest of France and center of the wine universe–is the first urban center to be declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site (2007). A complete restoration of the city’s 18th century core and the banks of the Garonne River make this one of the premier places to visit in the country. A state-of-the-art tram now runs extensively through town and connects both sides of the river, the first of its kind to have its cables buried beneath ground. The stunning, newly cleaned Saint André Cathedral presides over Place Pey-Berland. This main square, along with many other shopping and dining districts, are now pedestrian only, making Bordeaux truly one of the great cities of Europe.

Travel Tip: Bordeaux is less than three hours from Paris by TGV

EVENTO 2009: An Artistic and Urban Rendez-Vous
October 9 – 18, 2009. This month Bordeaux inaugurates the 10-day EVENTO, which celebrates art and culture in a truly unique urban experience. International artists and performers interact with city residents and visitors through roving art exhibitions that seem to spring up spontaneously, a program of lectures and conversations, public debates, and spontaneous encounters with “roving interventions” that bring art and the individual together. Free, fun, thought provoking, and the first-ever totally interactive city-wide festival, those visiting Bordeaux at this time are in for a memorable treat.

FUN FAIR 2009 – Foire aux Plaisirs
October 9 – November 4, 2009. A 160-year-old Bordelaise tradition (and happening at the same time as EVENTO), the Foire aux Plaisirs (Fun Fair) highlights life in the Gironde region of France with nearly 200 attractions on the banks of the Garonne River, across from the Place des Quinconces.

DELIGHTING THE SENSES

HEAVENLY SCENT Le Musée du Parfum
The art of scent is a French specialty. This lovely museum, just down the street from the Opéra Garnier, occupies an 1860s townhouse run by the legendary perfumer, Fragonard. Rose, jasmine, sandalwood, citrus and lavender waft through the elegant rooms that artfully display the copper paraphernalia originally used for distillation, as well as crystal bottles and atomizers from the 17th – 20th centuries. The antique orgue à parfum (tiered perfume “organ”) showcases about 200 vials of concentrates and you can discover just how much your own nose knows of the essences of scent. Free tours in English daily, year-round. Open Mon – Sat, 9-6; Sun and holidays 9 – 5. Free. 9 rue Scribe (Opéra metro station)

VERSAILLES' MUSICAL WATERS
In addition to the interior splendors of the Chateau de Versailles, its superb surroundings deserve time and attention. Paths, lined with a myriad of statues, weave among the manicured French gardens designed by Le Nôtre and fountains, placed at strategic intervals, shoot watery fireworks skyward.

Saturdays and Sundays through October 25th the fountains serenade visitors with musical interludes that add to the enchantment of a stroll around this green paradise. Known as Les Grandes Eaux Musicales (the grand musical waters), the fountains “play” classical music from 11 a.m. to noon and from 3:30 to 5:30 p.m. For visitors to France’s most famous chateau, this is a delightful bonus experience not to be missed. Admission to the gardens is €8, free for children under the age of 10.

TIME FOR TEA – La Maison des Trois Thés
As if wine, perfume and chocolate weren’t enough, Paris is fast gaining the reputation of being one of the world’s tea capitals. Its most famous and exclusive teahouse, La Maison des Trois Thés, is tucked into the Latin Quarter near Place Monge and run by renowned tea expert, Yu Hui Tseng. In this serene and fragrant shop furnished with Chinese antiques and decorated with calligraphy-covered canisters, visiting tea lovers can enjoy tastings and expert guidance in choosing from nearly 500 Chinese and Taiwanese teas that include some of the rarest and most expensive in the world.

When Madame Tseng returns from her forays to China’s premier plantations, several top chefs in Paris are alerted and rush to her shop to purchase her newest discoveries to serve in their Michelin-starred restaurants. 1 rue St Médard, Paris 1st (Notre Dame/Latin Quarter)

ROOFTOP EATS & ALL NIGHT TREATS

ARTY ALL NIGHT LONG On Saturday, October 3, Paris will stay up all night delighting insomniacs and revelers with its Nuit Blanche, the annual city-wide art festival and street party. Nuit Blanche means “sleepless night” and from 7 p.m. to 7 a.m. night becomes day as more than 70 contemporary art “projects” take over several arrondissements, from theaters and inner courtyards to swimming pools, universities and city parks.

The art directors have selected works that will include video projections, light shows, and large-scale installations. The areas to visit: the 19th arrondissement in the northern section of the city; the Marais, through les Halles, the historical theaters of Place du Châtelet, and across the river to Notre-Dame in the center of Paris; and the Latin Quarter (Left Bank). Public transportation, on the RATP Line 11, will run all night. Last year the party drew 1.5 million celebrants and at least as many are expected to take part in art this Saturday.

FORK WITH A VIEW Not only does Nomiya Restaurant top the latest dining trend list, but it’s also situated on top of the Palais de Tokyo with the Eiffel Tower front and center and all of Paris glittering below. Part of Paris’ ArtHome (pronounced arôme) temporary establishments (the last one on this rooftop was a one-room hotel), Nomiya keeps its focus simple: provide a completely unique and memorable dining experience.

This tiny (Nomiya means “little bar” in Japanese), box-car sized and shaped restaurant features an open kitchen and communal table that seats only 12 lucky guests for lunch or dinner. The multi-course menu, set daily by Chef Gilles Stassart, a renowned master of both cuisine and fine wines, incorporates fresh organic produce from the rooftop garden into his wildly inventive dishes.

Prix-fixe lunch costs €60 and dinner €80. Included is a glass of champagne, wine pairings, coffee and mineral water. Reservations can only be made via an online lottery system 30 days in advance of the meal, at www.art-home-electrolux.com
Palais de Tokyo • 13, avenue du Président Wilson

MASTERPIECES BIG & SMALL

SHOPPING SPECIFICS
Leave it to Paris to come up with the idea of shops and eateries that focus on one item exclusively. “Mono-mania” isn’t just for Parisians – visitors are falling in love with this unique concept that makes shopping truly special. A few exclusive places for that single-minded traveler:

• L’Ours du Marais. Teddy Bear lovers and collectors will delight in this little shop that showcases an amazing assortment of bears (ours, pronounced oorse). French and international designers have created the creatures in all shapes and sizes, and from materials such as mohair and alpaca. 18 Rue Pavée, Paris 4th, close to the Place des Voges.

• Maison Fabre. Making gloves is a fine art in France and shoppers here will find tradition with a perfect fit. Secret dye methods, superb craftsmanship and beautiful French skins come in 180 models for men, women, and children. Gloves can also be made to exact measure. 128-129 Galerie de Valois, Paris 1st, beneath the arcades and gardens of the Palais-Royal

• Le Soufflé. A trendsetter and classic at the same time, this beloved spot has been serving both savory and sweet soufflés from foie gras to fraises (strawberries) for 40 years. 36 Rue du Mont-Thabor, Paris 1st, between the Place Vendôme and the Place de la Concorde

• Le Paradis du Fruitis (Fruit Paradise). Eminent designer Philippe Starck created an exotic shop for fruit flavor lovers. The décor alone is worth a look and the fruity menu provides a refreshing pause in the prestigious district of the Champs Élysées. 47 Avenue George-V, Paris 8
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RIVALRY AT THE LOUVRE
Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese: Rivals in Renaissance Venice
Louvre Museum. Through January 4, 2010

Fresh from its showing at Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts, which co-curated the exhibit, this fantastic display shows the similarities and fierce competition between three painting giants whose collective careers filled the entire 16th century. There are 57 works, many of them larger than life. The artists’ paintings are placed side by side according to the subject, making the similarities among them quite striking.

PARISIEN DELIGHTS – Picnics & Ballet Slippers!

DINING IN THE SKY 58 Tour Eiffel: The new day and night restaurant at the Eiffel Tower

Replacing the former Altitude 95, this chic new concept restaurant allows diners two very different experiences on the first level of the Eiffel Tower. A “picnic style” lunch is a conveniently quick way to enjoy one of the finest views in the world. Guests pick up a picnic basket, order drinks, then choose main dishes from an open, cafeteria-style kitchen and place them into the basket. At the table, the idea is to “picnic” on offerings such as seared salmon, asparagus salad, and gourmet hamburgers – with Paris at your feet! Reservations for lunch are not necessary and dining here means no wait at the bottom for an elevator.

In the evening, the same restaurant transforms into a lovely brasserie where haute cuisine (think steak tartare, foie gras and oysters) and the twinkling lights of Paris make for an ultimately memorable experience. Reservations are required and can be made online at toptable.com.

OPERA GARNIER: Shopping Hits a High Note

The opulent Opera Garnier – famed as the home of Phantom of the Opera and the theater where Degas was first inspired by ballet dancers – has been renovated to show off its exquisite architectural highlights. Now, opera and dance lovers can indulge their fantasies while shopping in the new gallery dedicated to lyrical and choreographic arts. Included in the unique shop, which caters to children and adults alike, is a selection of delightful Opera Garnier-related items such as honey from hives tended on the roof of the opera house, ballet tutus, Repetto ballet shoes, jewelry and creative accessories.

NOTE: Chocolatine offers a variety of personal shopping services in Paris.

A LETTER OF RECOMMENDATION

Dear Florent,

Mary Barbara and Andrea arrived home on Sunday and I have a note already from Mary Barbara. The trip was a huge success, from the hotel to the shopping. She enjoyed the outings to Versailles and the Loire Valley. The personal shopper that you found was a good choice and the first store she took them to was a success. She praised the guide and her excellent English and knowledge. Thank you and your staff for taking care of my special clients.

Gale Doherty, CTC
CASTO TRAVEL (San Francisco)


CHOCOLATINE provides a wide range of tailor-made touring arrangements for couples, families and friends exploring France together, or on their own. Whether on holiday, celebrating a special occasion, enjoying a honeymoon, or simply relaxing in a favorite city or town, we take care of all the details.

Contact us for special arrangements, tours and personalized services for your clients. www.chocolatine.biz • 1-866-200-8122
Florent Maillet, owner • florent@chocolatine.biz

September in Paris

CHCOLATINE SAYS…
WE LOVE PARIS IN THE FALL!





The autumn months offer a huge variety of events, exhibit openings and eclectic happenings in the City of Lights. Among them:

HERITAGE DAYS (Journées du Patrimoine)
September 19 & 20, 2009

IMPORTANT: There are 15,000 sites throughout France that will be open during these two days for free. You clients will likely experience long lines, so if you have the chance to alert them to this, it would be a good thing. Versailles, for instance, is one of the busiest places during this celebration.

A countrywide celebration of all things French occurs this coming weekend and Paris rolls out the royal welcome mat to the world. The event is a veritable showcase of culture and tradition, architecture, history and the arts. Every notable building, museum and monument throws open its door to the public for free.

Visitors who happen to be in Paris this Saturday and Sunday can explore the French President’s residence (the Palais de l’Elysée), the Senate, the National Assembly, City Hall, City Archives, almost every museum (including the Louvre and the Musée d’Orsay), Ste. Chapelle and Notre Dame, plus view performances at theatres and music centers in every arrondissement (neighborhood). There are also specially mapped routes – Architectural Heritage Trails – for anyone exploring the city on foot.

The idea for the national celebration dates back to 1983 when the Ministry of Culture held the first monuments “free open house.” Using this concept, the European Council reinstated Heritage Days in 1991.

(If you want to see a list of everything that’s open and free this weekend (and you can manage a little bit of French), the Web site “cityzeum.com/blog/paris” lists everything by arrondissement.


RENOIR IN THE 20TH CENTURY
Sept 23, 2009 – Jan. 4, 2010
Grand Palais, Paris

Approximately 100 of Renoir’s last decorative paintings, drawings and sculptures have been assembled from international collections for a major exhibition at the Grand Palais in Paris. Some of the portraits, large nudes and studies of models were once owned by Matisse and Picasso and, in parts of the exhibit, their own work – along with that of Bonnard and Maillol – is shown side by side with Renoir’s to visually illustrate his profound influence. This is not only the chance to see the last and boldest of Renoir’s work, but a unique opportunity to witness the artistic perspective of a 19th century master who set the bar for some of the 20th century’s most important artists.

Open daily (except Tuesdays) from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday: 10 a.m. 8 p.m.

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CHOCOLATINE provides a wide range of tailor-made touring arrangements for couples, families and friends exploring France together, or on their own. Whether on holiday, celebrating a special occasion, enjoying a honeymoon, or simply relaxing in a favorite city or town, we take care of all the details.

Contact us for special arrangements, tours and personalized services for your clients. www.chocolatine.biz • 1-866-200-8122
Florent Maillet, owner • florent@chocolatine.biz

Picasso and Cezanne: Together Again in Aix-en-Provence

The hottest ticket in Provence this summer is to the exhibition that celebrates the huge influence of Paul Cezanne on Pablo Picasso’s artistic development.

The recently renovated Museé Granet in Aix en Provence, showcases more than 100 works from international private and public collections – paintings, drawings, watercolors, engravings, and sculptures that give us a glimpse into the professional and personal friendship these two artists enjoyed.

Complementing the exhibition is the first-ever public opening of the 17th-century Chateau in Vauvenargues, which Picasso bought in 1958. He and his wife Jacqueline lived there from 1959-1965, and it is where they are both buried. Picasso chose this site in tribute to his friend and mentor: “I live where Cezanne lives.”

The Museé Granet is open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Thursday hours are noon to 9 p.m. The exhibit runs through September 27, 2009.

Reservations are highly recommended and can be made through the French site at: http://www.fnacspectacles.com/place-spectacle/manifestation/Exposition-PICASSO---CEZANNE-CEZPI.htm

Or visit: http://www.picasso-aix2009.com

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