Notre Dame: Light Born of Light

Beautiful Notre Dame Cathedral is THE place to celebrate Christmas week. In addition to its special services—from Mass on Christmas Eve to Gregorian Chants on Christmas morning—the cathedral puts on a magical display, called Lumen de Lumine (Light born of Light).

Projected across a huge screen is an “image opera,” which tells the story of the Nativity, followed by a gorgeous sequence of the world’s greatest Christian art ever created, from sculptures and paintings to illuminated manuscripts, from architecture to icons to stained glass windows. The soundtrack is a collection of music by the Notre Dame choirs and organ concerts. While no specific daily time is set, the illumination begins in the when the church is calm... a moment well worth waiting for.

Details:
Notre Dame is open daily from 9:30 a.m. until 6 p.m.
Christmas Eve Services (December 24)
4:30 First Mass of Christmas
6 p.m. Family Christmas Mass
8 p.m. International Mass
11 p.m. Christmas Midnight Mass with Carols

MERRY CHRISTMAS, HAPPY HOLIDAYS
and A WONDERFUL, HEALTHY 2011
from all of us at Chocolatine!

Tis the Season for Chocolate!

The holiday season in Paris is romantic, festive and one of the tastiest times of the year! For those with a penchant for all things chocolate, the city’s finest cocoa bean wizards offer up splendid concoctions perfect for an afternoon’s indulgence—or that perfect gift for someone special. Here’s a short list of some of Paris’ most renowned shops and chocolate chefs...

Christian Constant
37 rue Assas
Specialites: raspberry ganache; chocolate covered orange peel.

Josephine Vannier
4 rue du Pas de la Mule
Specialties: artisan-crafted chocolate “sculptures,” from mini grand pianos to chocolate masks; nougatines and truffles

Piere Hermé
72 rue Bonaparte
Specialties: pralines with caramelized sesame seeds, ganaches with oranges and balsamic vinegar

Patrick Roger
108 Blvd. St. Germain
Specialties: chocolate-coated caramelized almonds; and a variety of chocolate confections with ingredients such as hazelnut praline, and lime ganache

Christmas Markets in Paris!

Paris marks the holiday season with dozens of annual traditions, including its famous Christmas Markets. Offering unique shopping opportunities in a variety of arrondissements, the markets make for a delightful outing and the perfect place to find Parisian treasures—great and small—for friends and family members.

Here is a short list of some of Chocolatine’s favorites:

• Arche de la Défense, Ile-de-France
Nearly 350 little “log cabins”—the vendors’ booths— create a miniature village, all lit up for the season.

• Trocadéro, opposite the Eiffel Tower
120 booths sell handcrafted items, tasty baked goods and tempting local specialties, and, to complete the experience, you can even go ice-skating!

• The Hotel Boheme (Dec. 11 & 12 only)
An outstanding two-day “sale” featuring decorations, jewelry, and clothing by ethnic designers.

• Saint-Germain-des-Pré has its own little Christmas Market, with 25 vendors selling uniquely Parisian gifts.

• Place de la République/Bastille area
Fabulous finds—sculpture, lace, hand-painted fabrics, leather, and handmade jewelry—hallmark this market of treasures.

Moore at the Rodin

For the first time in 30 years, Paris showcases the sculptural works of Henry Moore. Intended as a re-creation of Moore’s studio life, the exhibit setting is perfect—the beautiful Rodin Museum. Two enormous works grace the entry walkway to the Museum while inside, more than 150 sculptures, 50 drawings, sketchbooks and found objects (shells, bone, wood) reveal the contemplative nature of the artist’s work. The exhibition presents 50 years of Moore’s life as an artist and his passionate relationship with those found objects, which inspired his own creations.

Henry Moore, The Studio
Through February 27, 2011
Rodin Museum, Paris

Bordeaux Nouveau!

NOVART, a biennial festival of theater, music, and dance performances is about to celebrate its 8th year in the city of Bordeaux, from November 10 – 21. This year the theme is “Escapism,” both spoken and physical. Each of the 18 shows offer a variation on this concept and viewers will travel from one location to the next to enjoy this collage of words, sounds, and movement. All of the performances are either new French creations, or French premieres. Several venues host the performances, including the Opéra National of Bordeaux, the Glob Theatre, the Barbey Rock School, and an old shoe factory, Le TNT-Manufacture de Chaussures.

Information at the Glob Theatre: Phone: 05 56 69 06 66

Raffles Luxury Hotel Reopens in Paris

Le Royal Monceau-Raffles has just reopened in Paris with a series of design flourishes that are uniquely Philippe Starck. The guest rooms and suites are invitingly warm, spacious, eclectic, and evoke the finest in Parisian life – both then and now. Highlights include Le Cinéma du Lumières, a 100-seat state-of-the-art screening room that will feature premieres, festivals, and surprises for guests. The ultimately luxurious Spa My Blend by Clarins is unparalleled in its personal indulgences and features an 80-foot-long swimming pool (the largest in any Parisian palace), a team of fitness coaches, and every well-being amenity imaginable. The French restaurant, La Cuisine, blends the finest of contemporary French cuisine with the spirit of community with its long tables that face an open kitchen, while Il Carpaccio brings the sunshine and flavors of Sicily to well-appointed tables in a beautifully illuminated dining room. Both restaurants and Le Bar Long open out to Le Jardin, lushly landscaped and crowned with a giant wire and topiary teapot.

Hôtel Royal Monceau
37 Avenue Hoche (near the tony Rue Faubourg)
Tel: +33 1 42 99 88 00
Email: paris@raffles.com

Celebrating All Saints Day

The day after Halloween, La Toussaint (All Saints Day), is celebrated throughout France in honor of the Roman Catholic Saints. The following day, November 2, is Le Jour des Morts (Day of the Dead), a special time of remembrance of deceased loved ones. The traditions of these French holidays are joyous rather than somber, and include lighting candles in the cemeteries, decorating the graves with banners and chrysanthemums, and town- and citywide church bell ringing. Families and friends gather together for reminiscing, singing, and enjoying a special meal of pancakes, bacon, black grain and cider. For travelers lucky to be in Paris during this time, Père Lachaise, established by Napoleon in 1804 and one of the world’s most famous cemeteries, is worth a special visit to witness the traditions and colorful decorations on the graves.

Autumn Festival, Paris

Since 1972, a citywide celebration of the arts–Festival de l'automne–has blossomed in Paris, growing annually and showcasing an incredible variety of international dance, theater, music and film. For example, a four-part dance homage to the choreographer Merce Cunningham features music by Brian Eno and John Cage, and sets by Roy Lichtenstein, Robert Rauschenberg, and Jasper Johns. In theater, highlights include Japanese and Argentinean stories, as well as a Russian avant-garde version of Hamlet. The numerous music offerings include a Romanian musical epic by the Cluj Philharmonic, a cappella choirs, pieces commissioned especially for the Festival, and a symphony of “landscapes” played both on instruments and by hands and mouth sounds.

Venues include the Centre Pompidou, the Paris Opera, The Bastille Theatre, Theatre de la Ville, and numerous other theaters and concert halls around the city.
For more information and tickets:
www.festival-automne.com

Hair At The Movies

With its collection of 40,000 films, and an incredible assemblage of film memorabilia and paraphernalia, Paris’ Cinémathèque française is one of the world’s largest film archives. Any cinephile will love the costumes and props on display, not to mention the incredible selection of films on offer daily.

Just opened is the new exhibition, Brunes/Blondes, which brings visitors into the intriguing world of hair and illustrates how film directors have featured—and exploited—it through the ages. Just think of Kim Novac’s tidy chignon in Hitchcock’s Vertigo or Brigitte Bardot’s teasing tousled tendrils. Through photos, paintings and clips from the earliest to recent films, the stars and their hair, both brunette and blonde, shine supreme.

DETAILS
When: Through January 16, 2011
Where: Cinémathèque française, 51 Rue de Bercy
Hours: Monday to Saturday 12pm - 7pm. Sunday 10am - 8pm (CLOSED TUESDAYS)
Admission: Exhibition: 8 € Museum: 5 €
Tickets may be purchased online at: www.cinematheque.fr/fr/infospratiques/billetterie-cinema/achat-en-ligne.html

Rubens & Poussin at the Jacquemart-André

The outstanding Jacquemart- André Museum, a 19th century classical mansion, is tucked away on the Boulevard Haussmann, one of Paris’ most celebrated shopping avenues. Showcasing the amazing collection of art and antiquities collected by Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, this cultural gem is not to be missed. Da Vinci, Botticelli, Rembrandt, and Fragonard grace the walls while superb furnishings from all over the world create an elegant and gracious setting.

The superb exhibition, Rubens, Poussin and 17th Century Artists, now on view at the museum brings together two major artistic trends of the 17th century: Flemish Baroque and French Classical. More than 60 paintings from both major and private European collections shine a spotlight on the techniques of Rubens and Poussin and their profound influences on one another, and therefore on the whole of art history.

Details:
Exhibit runs through January 24, 2011
Jacquemart-André Musem
158 Boulevard Haussmann

Chocolatine Tip: Visitors can plan their museum visit to include afternoon tea and homemade pastries in the lovely, tapestry-adorned Jacquemart-André Café, daily from 3–4:30 p.m.

Murakami’s Fanciful Creations at Versailles

His work is charming, witty, colorful, mischievous, and delightful. Cute even. And ultimately complex. In 2008 Time Magazine hailed him as one of the 100 most influential artists of our time. Now Takashi Murakami’s sculptural creations grace the halls and galleries of the Palace of Versailles, greeting us as whimsical figures, fabulous forms, and fantastical flamboyance that might not be quite so out of place in a hall of mirrors and gold guilt-smothered ceilings that were once the wild imagination of a king. Many of Murakami’s pieces are exhibited for the first time; some of them took years to finish. For lovers of contemporary art at its most innovative – in a setting of utter splendor – this is an exhibition not to be missed!

Details
Versailles Palace
Through December 12, 2010
Hours: 9 a.m. – 6:30 (through October 31);
9 a.m. – 5:30 (November 1 – March 31)

Fiat Motor Village Revs Up Paris

Designed as “a theatre for our times,” the just-opened Fiat Motor Village is parked on the legendary rond-point of the Champs Elysées. The Village sports five floors of the Italian dolce vita, an image evoked by Fiat’s fabulous automobile brands through the decades. The innovative architecture comes from one of France’s leading designers and includes a transparent glass front that creates the illusion of inside-out space, two restaurants (the NoLita serving fine Italian cuisine, and a café, La Terrazza), and a gallery showcasing the art of young up-and-coming artists. The galleries and restaurant flow around a huge glass “cylinder” which contains the Fiat car models, from the earliest to the latest, while an Italian soundtrack plays throughout the various exhibit halls and public spaces. While the Village is ultimately a temple for Fiat and its brands, this isn’t exactly a stop at the corner car lot... For visitors who crave to experience the latest and greatest in Paris' conceptual trends, this is a whole new level of “wow!”

Reminder! Online Eiffel Tower Reservations

More than seven million people visit the Eiffel Tower each year. Just a reminder that online reservations are open for business and travelers can avoid the ordeal of waiting in the once inevitable long lines.

Here’s how it works:
• Visitors can make reservations up to one day prior to their visit.
• Create an account with basic information (similar to ordering theater or concert tickets)
• Choose date, time slot, number of visitors, and ages (for prices)
• Tickets are designated for visits EITHER to the Second Floor OR the Top
• Payment is made online (via secure server)
• Ticket must be downloaded and printed out. OR, download the bar code onto cell phone for presentation.
• Visitors with e-tickets simply go to the designated area at the Tower, according to time and date.
• NOTE: Visitors who wish to climb the stairs to the top do not need to pre-purchase tickets.

EIFFEL TOWER RESERVATION WEB SITE:
www.tour-eiffel.fr/teiffel/uk/index.html

The Grand Palais Reopens the Mini

Not only can visitors submerge their visual senses in the Monet exhibition now at the Grand Palais, but they can also indulge their culinary taste buds at the newly reopened, and visually stunning, Mini-Palais restaurant. Tucked into left wing of the recently renovated early 20th-century building, le Mini-Palais blends an airy contemporary design with a nouvelle French and Asian-infused cuisine. For lunch, guests can enjoy terrace dining beneath the colonnades, in full view of the Seine and the fabled Pont Alexandre III, Paris’ opulent and most beloved bridge. Stars of the menu, which does vary seasonally, include a duck breast and foie gras “hamburger” and fish roasted with bay leaves and eggplant caviar. Since the restaurant is open from noon until midnight, Le Mini Palais offers a perfect afternoon respite for a lovely glass of wine and small specialty plate, or tea and fig tarte, among the fabulous desserts...

Details:
Le Mini-Palais, at Le Grand Palais
Where: Avenue Winston Churchill (Champs Elysées-Clemenceau metro)
Hours: daily, noon until midnight
Tel. 01-42-56-42-42

Versailles’ Fragrance Conservatory

Unique in the world, the Osmothèque is a veritable monument to perfumes both contemporary and those that reach back in time. Remember: scent is our earliest memory! Like a library of precious volumes, the Osmothèque (the name derives from the Greek osmo, smell, and theke, a place of storage) is an amazing collection of most of the existing fine fragrances. From them forgotten classic scents are recreated so that visitors can actually smell perfumes that once scented the hands and napes of kings, queens, and famous historical personalities, from as far back as the 19th century. An underground vault preserves historic fragrances no longer made, and a fascinating exhibit hall showcases ancient scent “recipes.” There are also dozens of documents recounting the history of famous perfume houses, a collection of vials and bottles, and all kinds of scent-extracting paraphernalia. For those looking for an “extra-sensory” indulgence, the Osmothèque (now in its 20th year) offers the nose an ultimately French experience.

Details:
Where: Osmothèque, 36 rue du Parc de Clagny, Versailles
Hours: Wednesdays, 2:30 – 5 p.m; first Saturday of the month, 2:30 – 5 p.m.; second and third Saturdays of the month, 10 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.
Admission: 15 €
Tel: 01.39.55.46.99

Images Light Up Le Baux in Provence

Hailed as “one of the most beautiful villages” in France, Le Baux is perched high above the Provence countryside with views of Arles, the Camargue, and the Alpilles Mountains. Only 500 residents make their home here and visitors arrive solely on foot. Meticulous restoration showcases Le Baux’s storied past and 22 architectural wonders are on the list of “Historic Monouments.” The History Museum and the fabulous Citadelle at the peak of the town are not to be missed.

Just on the edge of town lies a magical place—the Cathédral d’Image—a natural stone theater projection screen which uses the rock walls from regional quarries as photographic canvasses. Created by the photographer Albert Plécy, a journalist and World War II correspondent, the intent was to bring the visitor physically into the photographs. Themed shows are projected daily, with more than 50 projectors lighting huge images against the walls of stone. Beautifully synchronized soundtracks are written for each production and envelope the visitor in a sensory kaleidoscope as you walk “through” the photographs, observing and interpreting the images from different angles.

Current show (Through January 2, 2011):
Terra Australis Incognita (the landscapes of Australia and the culture of the Aborigine people)
Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Each presentation lasts 30 minutes.
Admission: Adults 7.50 €; children 7-17 3.50 €
Physically accessible to all

Monet Graces The Grand Palais

For the first time in thirty years the father of Impressionism is the subject of a magnificent new exhibition opening next week at the splendid Grand Palais. Claude Monet 1840-1926 celebrates the artistic evolution of the “painter of light” over the course of 60 years, through more than 200 works assembled from collections from the Musée d’Orsay to Australia, Brazil, Russia, the USA, the Netherlands and beyond. Landscapes, portraits, and vignettes of daily life reveal Monet’s personal universe of observation and give viewers the chance to revel in the poetic light and shadows that beckon from these exquisite canvases.

Information & Tickets:
Claude Monet 1840-1926
When: September 22, 2010 – January 24, 2011
Where: The Grand Palais (Champs-Élysées in the 8th arrondissement)
Hours: Friday to Monday: 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Wednesday: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Thursday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. CLOSED TUESDAYS & CHRISTMAS DAY
Admission: 12 €
Reservations: http://www.digitick.com/claude-monet-ile-de-france-css4-rmn-pg5-fi1155.html

Bordeaux’s Women of Wine

Martine, Armelle, Marie-Laure, and Florence are known throughout France as Les Médocaines – four women vintners from four regional wine chateaux. In this autumn season devoted to the grape, the Bordeaux Tourism Office offers three weekend visits to the chateaux with opportunities to join the women of wine for hands-on harvesting, cellar exploration, and, of course, tastings! The four chateaux are: Château Paloumey, Château La Tour de Bessan, Château Le Taillan, and Château Loudenne.

The excursions operate:
Mondays, September 27th and October 4th & 11th
Included:
• Morning transportation from the Bordeaux Tourist Office
• An introduction to the vineyard and on-location grape tasting. Help with the harvest is followed by a wine tasting.
• At 12:30 p.m. there is another tasting, over the course(s) of a winegrowers luncheon.
• The afternoon is filled with visits to the chateaux wine cellars, grape harvest sorting, learning about the various wine-making methods, tasting from the vats, and the grand finale of tastings from the bottled vintage.
• Return transportation to Bordeaux.
Cost per person: 80.00 €
Reservations: www.bordeaux-tourisme.com/pl/visites.pl?lg=uk&id=281&df=2

Celebrating French Heritage

Every year, over the third weekend in September, the entire country of France celebrates it heritage—its history, its arts, its culture—and its people. Les Journée du Patrimoine is an open invitation to citizens and visitors alike to come discover all things, and all personalities, français for free. Almost every museum is open late; many monuments and government buildings admit the public only on this single weekend; and galleries and historic homes offer a wonderful chance to explore both legendary and lesser-known places of interest. Among the Paris hotspots: the Paris Archives, the Palais de l’Elysée (the French President’s residence), the Senate, and the National Assembly. Many locations offer special guided tours.

Chocolatine tip: Special this year is the invitation to wander through the legendary Moulin Rouge, including the private salons and costume rooms backstage.

Journée du Patrimoine
September 18 & 19

Versailles – A Show Fit for a King

During the next three weekends of September, at Versaille's fabled Fountain of Neptune, visitors will be enchanted by the telling of the story, THE ROYAL WEDDING OF LOUIS XIV. The dramatic, lavish performance is narrated, re-enacted and choreographed in true spectacle style, and tells the story of the 22-year-old Sun King and his arduous journey (in 1660) to marry the Infanta of Spain. A fireworks display over Versailles caps off the evening, a fitting grand finale to summer .

Details:
Event: The Royal Wedding Of Louis XIV
Where: Versailles Palace, Fountain of Neptune
Dates: Sept. 3 & 4; 10 & 11; 17 & 18
Time: 9:30 p.m. until midnight
Prices: from 35€ – 85€
Info: www.chateauversailles-spectacles.fr

Lyon – Dance Extravaganza!

Every two years the beautiful city of Lyon hosts a huge international dance festival – Biennale de la Danse – that twirls and shakes the city for three weeks. This year’s fest is titled “Encore” and marks the 14th such event. More than 40 dance companies and 740 invited artists come from every corner of the world to charm and captivate audiences with 168 performances. Fifty-seven choreographed works take place in more than 30 citywide locations and include every style from ballet and flamenco to jazz, break-dancing and tap. Highlights include the Monte Carlo Ballet, young dancers of the Ailey II dance company, and the National Ballet of Algeria, which is performing a memorable hip hop version of Ravel’s sensual Bolero. On Sept. 12th, everyone is invited to catch the spirit of rhythm and movement and join the dance spectacular at Place Bellecour.

Biennale de la Danse
September 6 – October 3
Prices: From €7 to €90 (and many citywide free events)
To reserve tickets online: www.biennaledeladanse.com

Wine & Jazz in Beaune

At the heart of Burgundy is the lovely town of Beaune, where art and architecture are imbued with centuries-old traditions of wine making. Add music to the mix and you have a six-day feast of harmonious joie de vivre – the annual Jazz in Beaune Festival. Over the span of two weekends, a variety of concerts include swing, blues, and gatherings of musicians for some stellar improvisational sessions. During the day exhibits and educational events will be held in the beautiful Chapelle Saint Etienne, showcasing photos and paintings of the region, as well as offering daily wine tastings and an aroma cellar to sharpen your definition of those subtle Burgundian topnotes.

Details:
Beaune Jazz Festival
2 weekends: Sept. 9, 10, 11 and Sept. 16, 17, 18
Grand Concerts: Theatre de Beaune
“Off” Concerts: Place Carnot (free)
more info: www.beaune-burgundy.com

Travel Tip: Visitors can take the TGV form Paris to Dijon (only one hour and 40 minutes, followed by a 20-minute train ride to Beaune).

Pompidou Centre: Exhibiting the Feminine

The superb exhibition currently at Paris' Pompidou Centre, showcases the finest of its collection of women artists who forged new directions in the arts. elles@centrepompidou is a feast of more than 500 works by more than 200 female artists spanning the 20th century. This groundbreaking exhibit, on display in a series of thematic rooms, is the first ever to focus only on female artists and puts women at the very heart of modern art. Within the chronologically presented exhibits, are such luminaries as Sonia Delaunay, Frida Kahlo, Sophie Calle, Annette Messager, Louise Bourgeois, Niki de Saint Phalle, Suzanne Valadon and Diane Arbus.

DETAILS: elles@centrepompidou runs through February 21, 2011. The center is open every day except Tuesdays, 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Museum and Exhibits: Open 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.

Bordeaux: Flea Market Treasures

Four times a year, Bordeaux hosts one of France’s largest flea markets – Le Grand Déballage de Brocante. The word brocante means objects d’art, curiosities, and serendipitous discoveries. The lovely setting is the Place Saint-Michel, near the quayside, and visitors can join the eagle-eyed treasure-hunters and wander the car-free streets in search of that perfect memento. The next market date is September 12.

Other excellent flea markets include:
•Belfort (Vieux Quartier), near Alsace – First Sunday of every month
•Lyon (Villeurbanne) – Sunday mornings
•Nice (Cours Saleya) – Monday morning to mid-afternoon
•Paris (Porte de Vanves) – Saturday and Sunday mornings
•Toulouse (Allées Jules Guesde) – First Friday, Saturday & Sunday of every month (except October)

Tapestry Tales: Gobelins in the Making

The 13th arrondisement is tucked away on the left bank of the Seine in the southeastern part of central Paris. In the middle of the 15th century the Gobelin family manufactured their superlative fabric dyes here and, in the early 1600s, Henry IV brought his Flemish tapestry makers to the neighborhood, rented space in the dyers buildings, purchased the silks and dyes from the tradesmen and founded a legacy that became known the world over as the Gobelins tapestries.

The establishment – the Manufacture des Gobelins – is now run by the French Ministry of Culture and interested visitors can take a fascinating guided tour offered three times a week. Weavers follow in the original warp and weave traditions, painstakingly creating a mere square meter of tapestry per year. The designs are meticulously created by contemporary artists and executed on a variety of loom types, from tall vertical assemblages to the more traditional horizontal wooden looms. The behind-the-scenes look at one of oldest continuously operating trades in France offers a wonderful chance to step back in time and appreciate the beauty and precision of the Gobelin masterpieces.

Manufacture des Gobelins * 42 Avenue des Gobelins
Guided tours: Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday: 2.00 & 2.45 p.m. * Admission: €8

Wine & Gastronomy Along the Seine

Paris visitors can now savor fine cuisine and sip renowned vintages as they cruise along the Seine through the most romantic city in the world. Several boat companies offer a choice of dinner cruises or wine tasting experiences as the monuments of Paris dreamily scroll by. From menus that include homemade foie gras and platters of regional French cheeses, to elaborate seafood dishes and sumptuous desserts, a dinner bateaux experience is destined to be memorable. Guests may also choose a wine-tasting cruise, from an introductory wine class to champagne tasting on a lovely illuminated deck, all while viewing the sights and sites of the city.

Reservations can be made for the cruise of choice at the following boat companies:

•BATEAUX-MOUCHES
www.bateaux-mouches.fr
•PARIS YACHT MARINA
www.parisyachtmarina.com
•BATEAUX PARISIENS
www.bateauxparisiens.com
•CANAUXRAMA
www.canauxrama.com
•PARIS EN SCÈNE
www.paris-en-scene.com
•VEDETTES DE PARIS
www.vedettesdeparis.com

Un Petit Vacation

The Chocolatine Blog will be taking a little break until August. We hope you enjoy the rest of July and the wonderful days of summer. We'll be back with much more information about traveling through France, so be sure to check back in a few weeks.

Of course our Chocolatine office is open and we are hard at work making France vacation dreams come true. Please call us any time!

Sleeping with the Stars

In keeping with its grand tradition of glamour, glitz, and film, Cannes offers some pretty fabulous accommodations. With an ultra modern décor that spotlights famous actors and actresses on its headboards and along its walls, the Palais Stephanie offers rooms and suites with stunning views of the city, its lovely garden, or the Mediterranean. An amazing rooftop terrace, complete with swimming pool and Jacuzzi, includes Le Panorama, an outdoor bar area that serves salads and other light fare while guests overlook the azure sea. Le Scena Restaurant and Bar is a see-and-be-seen scene, with a fabulous menu drawing from the international flavors of Italy, Japan, France, and Lebanon.

NOTE: Every week in July and August, the Cannes Festival of Pyrotechnic Art sends dazzling fireworks displays over the Cannes Harbor. Visitors to Cannes this summer ca reserve a table at La Scena on the following dates for the best views of the event: July 14, 21, 29; and August 7, 15, 24.

Contact:
Tel: +33 4 92 99 70 00 or reservation@jestahotels.com

Palais Stephanie
50 boulevard de La Croisette

Impressions of Rouen

The Musée des Beaux-Arts in the center of Rouen celebrates the Impressionists with a spectacular exhibition that continues until September 26: “A City for Impressionism: Monet, Pissarro and Gauguin in Rouen.” The city’s architectural heritage and its natural setting along the banks of the Seine, inspired Pissarro to call Rouen “as beautiful as Venice,” and its attraction to artists reaches back to the Renaissance. The exhibition includes more than 100 paintings from both public and private collections—some of which have never before been displayed—showcase the works of the three famed 19th-century artists. The intricate Rouen Cathedral was painted some thirty times by Monet, who beautifully captured the ethereal light on the stone façade during different times of day.

Hours: 9 a.m. – 7 p.m. daily; Thursdays and Sundays until 10 p.m.
Exhibition fee: 9 €

Lavender de Provence

The lavender fields of Provence are legendary and a sight worth seeking. Photographers, lovers of fragrance, and culinary aficionados must experience the beautiful fields at least once in a lifetime. One of the best places to view the traditional rows of purple—and one of the most photographed—is the Cistercian abbey, Notre-Dame de Senanque, located in the charming village of Gordes between Aix-en-Provence and Avignon. Founded in 1148, and surviving a tumultuous history, the abbey is now run by a small Cistercian monk community who settled here in 1988. The guided tours are excellent and the gardens of lavender simply breathtaking. A lovely Mass is held every Sunday at 10 a.m.

Details:
The Abbey, its library, and shop are open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 2 – 6 p.m. on Sundays.

Entrance Fees: €7 ages 18 and older; €3 under 18

Jazz Festival — Marseille

Marseille’s 10th annual international Five Continents Jazz Festival hosts top musicians from all over Europe, Africa, North and South America, and Asia for six fabulous evenings. Since the early 1920s France’s lively southern port has been a hub for jazz, drawing legendary musicians such as Dizzy Gillespie and Charlie Parker to its famed Hot Club de Marseille.

Held in and around the beautiful gardens of the Palais Longchamp, this major summer Festival showcases bright young talent alongside some of the finest veterans, making the festival a highlight in the world of jazz. This year, Al Jarreau, Chick Corea, Maceo Parker, Richard Bona, and Manu Katché gather to pay tribute to Django Reinhardt, Biréli Lagrène, and Didier Lockwood. The festival opens with a free concert by young rising stars.

Five Continents Jazz Festival
WHEN: July 20 – 24, 2010
WHERE: Palais Longchamp
TIME: Concerts begin at 8:30 p.m.
PRICE:
1 night: 28 €
Pass 2 nights : 45 €
Pass 3 nights : 65 €
Pass 4 nights : 85 €
Pass 5 nights : 100 €
OPENING NIGHT: July 19 – FREE
INFO & TICKETS: http://www.festival-jazz-cinq-continents.com

Les Epicuriales in Bordeaux

A center of food and wine, lovely Bordeaux hosts Les Epicuriales—a feast for the palate—every evening through July 4th. The Allées de Tourny transforms into “a village of gastronomic delights.” Food stalls, featuring specialties from more than 30 restaurants, line the tree-lined street and welcome visitors (nearly 300,000 last year!) with tempting international cuisines. A wine tent— Espace Epicuriales—offers a wide array of both celebrated regional wines and vintages from around the world. Local artists sell their crafts in the marketplace and concerts take place on every corner throughout the evening. A summer evening in Bordeaux must include this festive—and tasty—epicurean celebration!

BASTILLE DAY FESTIVITIES

JULY 14—France’s national holiday, and one of Paris’ biggest public parties, is a two-day event celebrating the beginning of the French Revolution. On July 13, Place de la Bastille turns into one big dance party until the wee hours (and then some!). Balls are also held throughout the city and in many fire stations—the firemen are an amazing sight to behold, decked out in their uniforms. On July 14, residents and visitors line the Champs Elysées (get there very early!) for a parade featuring the military’s top brass. Overhead, jets fly in impressive formation along the parade route, from the Arc de Triomphe to the Place de la Concorde. City-wide festivities (in every bar, café and restaurant) continued throughout the day. As evening falls, gather at the Champ-de-Mars to watch the fireworks at the Trocadéro.

For a truly memorable celebration, the Bateaux Parisiens cruise the Seine from 8:30 p.m. until midnight. Dinner cruises, with live entertainment, include the best seats for the fireworks display! Visit: http://www.cometoparis.com/parisbastilledaydinnercruise.html

Bastille Day Details:

JULY 13
• Dance at Place de la Bastille 8:30 p.m.
JULY 14
• Parade along the Champs Elysées – 10 a.m.
• Jet fly-over the Champs Elysées – 11 a.m.
• Fireworks, Champ-de-Mars/Trocadéro – 10 p.m.

Please note: Chocolatine will not be posting a blog on Thursday, June 17. Please visit us again on Tuesday, June 22

In Paris... Kong is King!

Kong, designed by Phillipe Starck, features an impeccable menu by Japanese master Fumiko Kono, and a glass-domed perch with an unparalleled view of Paris from the top two floors of the Kenzo building. With a bar on the list of “World’s Best,” and the restaurant hailed as one of the most visually stunning dining establishments in the country, Kong represents the new Paris... haute luxury with an open invitation to everyone. Here Louis the XV armchairs sit next to a fluorescent staircase and plasma screens seem to hover above a carpet resembling pebbles. This summer, the Terrace Gallery opens with an open-air patio, a perfect last stop on a perfect evening out on the town.

Kong
1 Rue du Pont-Neuf
Contact: +33 (0)1 40 39 09 00


NOTE: The Picasso Museum will be closed for renovation work August 2009 to 2012.

SUMMER JAZZ IN THE PARC FLORAL

The annual Paris Jazz Festival opens this weekend in the beautiful Parc Floral. Concerts take place every Saturday and Sunday through July. Last year, more than 140,000 jazz lovers attended the events, which are free, with park admission. The 2010 lineup includes famed Scandinavian sax player Jan Garbarek, five female groups/singers, blues & soul bands, German techno, and groups from the Middle East and Africa. The last weekend (July 31 and August 1) brings together a unique blend of jazz and classical.

The Parc Floral, a lovely botanical garden with four distinct landscaped areas and displays of flowers and rare plants, is located on the Esplanade du Château in Vincennes. A tranquil lake, sculpture garden, an “exotarium” with exotic fish and reptiles, and children’s playground make it a favorite destination on weekends.

There are 1,500 seats available for the jazz concerts and early arrival is recommended. Concerts are held at 3 p.m. and 4:30 both weekend days. There are some exceptions, so be sure to check the website: www. parisjazzfestival.fr

DATES: June 12 – August 1, 2010 (weekends only
PARK HOURS: 9:30 am to 8:00 pm daily
PARK ENTRANCE FEE: 5€ (adult); 2.50€ (ages 7-25); under 7 free

SUMMER MAGIC AT CHATEAU DE BLOIS

A lovely summer evening in the Loire Valley must include the Sound & Light Show at the Chateau Royal de Blois. A favorite residence of French royalty since the 15th century, Blois also received Joan of Arc who came here in 1429 to have her banner blessed.

The show, which runs 45-minutes-long (through Sept. 26) was scripted by French historian Alain Decaux and features the stories of love, drama, and mystery for which the chateau is famous. Special effects, atmospheric lighting, and dramatic music fill the magnificent architectural space, drawing spectators into a magical world that transcends the centuries.

Nightly show begins at nightfall, at 10 p.m.; guests can enter the inner courtyard 30 minutes early and listen to music while images are projected around the stone walls. Wednesday evening performances are in English.

Prices for the Son et Lumiere only: €7 for adults, €4, ages 6-17. Tickets may also be purchased as a Chateau & Show combination: €14 adults €6, ages 6-17

Contact: chateau@ville-blois.fr or Tel : 02-54-90-33-33

KEYS TO THE LOIRE KINGDOM

Visitors to the Loire Valley can now purchase a Chateaux Pass (Clefs des Temps) and enjoy entrance to ten beautiful castles, ranging from the medieval Castle of Châteaudun to the opulent Renaissance masterpiece, Chambord. The pass, which includes admission to both the interiors and stunning gardens, costs $42.75, a savings of nearly 50 percent over individual admission prices.

The castles included in the pass:
Azay le Rideaux • Chambord & Chaumont • Chateau de Chambord • Castle of Châteaudun • Chateau of Azay-le-Rideau • Chateau de Chaumont sur Loire • Chateau d'Angers • Chateau de Talcy • Chateau de Fougeres sur Bievres • Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud • Chateau d’Oiron

To purchase Le Clefs des Temps online: http://www.discoverfrance.net/Boutique/Travel/Passes/

WAKE UP IN A PARIS MONUMENT!

Shhhh, don’t tell anyone your client accidentally fell asleep in their favorite Paris icon. Or, wait... could it have been accidentally on purpose? The new, delightfully whimsical, yet stylishly elegant Hotel Secret de Paris welcomes guests to their Parisian monument-fantasy of choice. That’s some enchanted evening!

Situated in the 9th arrondisement, in the Trinité neighborhood, this luxurious little hotel features 29 rooms, each imaginatively designed with some fairly sophisticated lighting scenarios to make you feel as if you are “there”—as inside the Moulin Rouge (think red); the Museé d’Orsay (think big clock); the Opera House (ballet slippers?), and yes, the Eiffel Tower (that’s for you to find out...). In addition to visual ecstasy, guests can indulge in soulful spa treatments, from sauna and steam baths to massage and color therapy.

Hotel Secret de Paris
2 Rue de Parme
Reservations: hotel@hotelsecretdeparis.com
Prices: From €180 to €310

MASTERWORKS IN METZ

The grand opening of the Pompidou Centre, Metz on May 12 drew great crowds and phenomenal international press. Its first major exhibition makes quite a statement—with a question: “Chefs-d’oevre?” (“Masterpieces?”) Spread throughout four color- and motif-themed galleries, nearly 800 20th-century artworks—paintings, graphics, photographs, sculptures, films and videos—are on display to serve as a fascinating investigation of the idea of masterpiece. What makes one? What does it take to make a masterpiece? Who decides something is a masterpiece? And, does the concept still have meaning in our present-day culture? Fun, creative, and imaginative, the exhibit makes a fitting grand entrance—into France and into the world of art at large.

Open every day, except Tuesdays.

YEAR OF RUSSIA IN FRANCE

A celebration and cultural exchange takes place between France and Russia this year. Among the wonderful events and displays are two art exhibition standouts:

HOLY RUSSIA: Russian Art from the Beginnings to Peter the Great
The stunning and monumental Russian art exhibition at the Louvre is closing at the end of this coming weekend (May 24). Unfolding chronologically, the exhibit focuses on the history of Christian Russia, from the 9th to the 18th centuries with icons, bejeweled crosses, triptychs, manuscripts, and paintings.

WOODEN SAINTS
Traveling all the way to Lyon from Perm, an ancient city in Russia’s Ural Mountains, is an amazing collection of wooden saints. The Perm Art Gallery is considered one of the largest and finest in all of Russia and its permanent collection of 400 religious sculptures has a Russian scholar to thank. In the 1920s, Nikolai Serebrenikov furiously began gathering the wooden images and sculptures as the Bolsheviks were shutting down most of the country’s churches and monasteries. The Lyon Museum of Fine Arts hosts this sublime exhibit in September 2010.

LUXURIOUS PARIS

Restaurant Les Ambassadeurs, one of Paris’ top restaurants, reopened its doors in April, welcoming their new executive chef, Christopher Hache. The opulent dining room, highlighted by its spectacular views of the Place de la Concorde, has just completed renovations which were designed to bring a bit of contemporary flair to its opulent wall mirror panels and glittering chandeliers.

The restaurant is part of the classic Five-Star Hotel de Crillon, built in 1758 at the foot of the Champs Elysées. Queen Marie Antoinette took piano lessons here and the historic guest list since has included General Pershing, Franklin Roosevelt, Woodrow Wilson, and many others. Gorgeous tapestries, polished marble, and Louis XVI furniture are part of the sumptuous décor.

Les Ambassadeurs is open for both lunch and dinner, as well as Sunday brunch (closed Mondays).
For reservations: +33 (0) 1 44 71 16 16

READY THE GLASS for BORDEAUX’S FÊTE LE VIN!

June 24 – 27 is the weekend wine lovers gather in Bordeaux in search of the holy grape. Viniculture and the perfect marriage between food and wine are the focus of this festival, which is staged like a wine route that winds its way along the Garonne River and through the beautiful medieval architecture that secured the city a place on the UNESCO World Heritage Site List. This year, Bordeaux pays homage to its twin francophone city, Quebec, with a special pavilion and daily events.

A few HOW-TO-FESTIVAL tips:
•Be sure to buy a Tasting Pass! For only 15€, visitors can roam the eight pavilions, meet the winemakers, and enjoy 12 tastes in a souvenir glass and glass holder. A Pass Duo costs 20€ and offers the same benefits for two people!
•A Vineyard Pass—priced from 50-90€—gives visitors a chance to spend an entire day touring the Bordeaux vineyards and includes coach transport to three different wine estates, tastings at each, and lunch.

AMONG THE PARTICIPANTS:
Saint Emillion- Fronsac-Pomerol • Médoc & Graves • Bordeaux & Bordeaux Supérieur • L’Or de Bordeaux (sweet white wines) • The wines of Aquitaine, Bordeaux Négociants, (various appellations) • The Côtes De Bordeaux • Cordier Mestrezat • Baron De Lestac-Malesan-Blaissac

Match Point: It’s Open Season in Paris!

Between May 23 and June 6, international tennis stars and their adoring public will gather in Paris for some of the world’s best matches. Played on clay—the nemesis of such champions as Pete Sampras and Jimmy Connors —the French Open is considered the toughest of the four grand slam tournaments.

The tennis open officially started in 1891, went international in 1925, and moved to its longtime and current home, Roland Garros in 1928. (Garros was a French aviation pioneer and war hero.) Recent title-holders include Roger Federer, Rafael Nadal (this year’s favorite), Bjorn Borg back in the ’70s, and 1920s female legend, Suzanne Lenglen.

While tickets are difficult to obtain, they are offered on a first-come, first-served basis. Good advice for how and where to buy tickets can be found at: http://french.open-tennis.com/tickets.php

PARIS & ALL THAT JAZZ

Paris celebrates the 10th Anniversary of Jazz in Saint-Germain-des-Près, the neighborhood that’s been listening to a jazz soundtrack since World War II. Classic venues, such as the Sorbonne and Saint-Sulpice, along with every café, bar, and street corner in this favorite left Bank district, host both young up-and-coming musicians and world-class greats…. It was here, after all, that Miles Davis and Duke Ellington brought New Orleans and Be Bop to Paris. Highlights at this year’s Festival include the accordion virtuoso, Richard Galliano, a fast-rising star singer from Nantes, Ben l’Oncle Soul, Bozan Z on piano, and Diane Tell who performs an homage to Vian.

Dates: May 16 – 30, 2010
For more information and tickets: www.festivaljazzsaintgermainparis.com/festival-jazz-saint-germain-des-pres-paris/en/
Tel: + 33 (0) 9 75 86 74 13
Concert Prices: from Free to 38 Euros

YES… We Cannes!

Between May 12 – 23 more than 200,000 filmmakers, paparazzi, and star-gazers will descend on the glitzy, but usually quieter, town of Cannes on the French Riviera during the world-renowned Cannes Film Festival. It was Brigitte Bardot who put both the Festival and the town on the map back in the 1950s when she posed for the cameras wearing almost nothing but her dazzling smile.

For visitors to Nice and surrounding Provencal towns, getting to Cannes is fairly easy. Shuttle buses leave every half hour from near the Nice International Airport; in just 30 minutes, riders are dropped off right in the thick of the festival throngs. While the festival is reserved for industry professionals and the press, the atmosphere is glamorously eclectic. An outdoor film screen—Cinéma de la Plage—on the beach, at Plage Mace shows films nightly (tickets at the Tourism Office). Boutique shops such as Cartier and Gucci stand alongside art galleries and chic cafés, perfect for people-watching. And, in beachside stalls you Cannes buy the T-shirt!

Dining tip: For delicious Provençal cuisine, head to Le Petit Lardon, on Rue du Batéguier. If you have a reservation (well in advance: 04 93 39 49 44), enjoy one of the ultimate seafood dining experiences in Cannes at Gaston Gastounette on Quai Saint-Pierrre.

Welcome: THE MERRY MONTH OF MAY!

May brings springtime to full bloom all over France, making it a delightful (and delicious) month to explore. Here are a few tidbits of share-worthy information:

• May 15: Night of the Museums. In Paris and throughout France museums are free and open late into the evening
• Monte Carlo’s main casino will be closed for renovations from May 23, 2010 – January 2011.
• Cannes Film Festival (the 63rd!) is May 12 – 23
• Chaumont International Garden Festival: May through mid-October. The lovely Chateau Chaumont in the Loire Valley hosts an annual festival that celebrates some of the world’s finest contemporary garden design. This year, the theme is “Body and Soul,” and 20 designs have been selected from countries that include Italy, Japan, Germany Great Britain, and the Netherlands. The gardens are also illuminated in the evenings during the festival and temporary restaurants/cafes offer local delicacies.
• Grasse (Provence) May 13 –16 brings the fragrant Expo-Rose to town, the largest exhibition on this queen of flowers of its kind in the world.
• Strawberries! Visitors to the Dordogne in May can savor the delicious berry grown there. Three village festival celebrate the tasty fruit (aka: the world’s largest strawberry tarts!): Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne on May 9; Marmande, on May 15; and Vergt, on 16 May.

COME TO THE BORDEAUX FAIR!

May 8 – 17. The Bordeaux International Fair offers ten days of eclectic fun, food and festivities that take visitors around the globe. More than 2,500 exhibitors celebrate rural life in France and abroad. This year marks the year of friendship between France and Russia, and the fair pays homage to all things Russian, from opera to fine arts, from folk crafts to delicious foods. At the Aquitane Farm—an authentic recreation of an actual working farm—exhibits include everything from animal husbandry to winemaking, from hunting to the production and uses of bio-energy.

At the International pavilion, more than 150 exhibitors from the four corners of the world—from Peru to Indonesia, from South Africa to the French West Indies and Polynesia contribute their worldly favors and regional wares.

Hours: Daily 9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.
May 12th –“Nocturnal Wednesday” – open until10.30pm.
Tickets: Adults 7.7 € Children ages 6–11, 5.7 €

AVIGNON CELEBRATES WINE!

MAY 15, 2010 Each year, on the Saturday following Ascension Thursday in the Roman Catholic church, France celebrates with its Fête de la Vigne et du Vin. Many towns and villages offer special wine- and vine-related events; in Provence, Avignon marks the occasion at its splendid Papal Palace—the focal point in town for wine producers and wine lovers.

Visitors to the region can enjoy leisurely drives through the vineyards on designated routes, stopping to taste both venerable and up-and-coming vintages. And, it’s the one day when cellars open their doors to the public, and when oenophiles can chat with producers about vintages and terroir.

Tip from Chocolatine: The classic Restaurant La Mirande (in Hotel La Mirande) in Avignon offers a wonderful organic brunch every Sunday. 45 € per person. Tel: 4-90-85-93-93.

CELEBRATING CHOPIN – Cite de la Musique

Music lovers shouldn’t miss the amazing Cite de la Musique, located in the La Villette quarter, on the eastern side of Paris. A spectacular architectural structure, the museum covers five floors of exhibit halls, including a concert hall, the museum of French instruments, and the National Conservatory of Music.

For the 2010 Chopin Bicentennial, the museum presents an exhibition: Chopin in Paris, the Composer’s Workshop, which commemorates the 18 years he spent in France. Visitors can view original music manuscripts, and hear his favorite piano played at concerts held every Saturday afternoon in May.

Cite de la Musique • 221Avenue Jean-Jaures
Hours: Tues. to Sat. 12 p.m. to 6 p.m.; Sun. 10am to 6pm

Tip: Don’t skip the instrument museum… Put on the infrared headphones and, as you walk through the various rooms, you can hear music played on the beautiful old instruments on display.

PARIS - Tapestries from the Renaissance

The Galerie des Gobelins—wonderful to visit at any time—is exhibiting some of the most spectacular tapestries created during the Renaissance. These intricate works of fabric art, from the 15th and 16th centuries, are part of a collection from the Spanish monarchies. Their origin is Flemish, the region now comprised of northeastern France and Belgium, and the southwestern Netherlands.

The Galerie des Gobelins is part of the Mobilier National, the official French repository of furniture and decorative objects from state-owned palaces. Both permanent and temporary/traveling exhibitions offer insight both into the history of French furniture and its most contemporary designs.

Galerie des Gobelins/ Mobilier National
42 avenue des Gobelins
Hours: Tuesday – Sunday, 11 to 6
Admission: 6€