DELIGHTING THE SENSES

HEAVENLY SCENT Le Musée du Parfum
The art of scent is a French specialty. This lovely museum, just down the street from the Opéra Garnier, occupies an 1860s townhouse run by the legendary perfumer, Fragonard. Rose, jasmine, sandalwood, citrus and lavender waft through the elegant rooms that artfully display the copper paraphernalia originally used for distillation, as well as crystal bottles and atomizers from the 17th – 20th centuries. The antique orgue à parfum (tiered perfume “organ”) showcases about 200 vials of concentrates and you can discover just how much your own nose knows of the essences of scent. Free tours in English daily, year-round. Open Mon – Sat, 9-6; Sun and holidays 9 – 5. Free. 9 rue Scribe (Opéra metro station)

VERSAILLES' MUSICAL WATERS
In addition to the interior splendors of the Chateau de Versailles, its superb surroundings deserve time and attention. Paths, lined with a myriad of statues, weave among the manicured French gardens designed by Le Nôtre and fountains, placed at strategic intervals, shoot watery fireworks skyward.

Saturdays and Sundays through October 25th the fountains serenade visitors with musical interludes that add to the enchantment of a stroll around this green paradise. Known as Les Grandes Eaux Musicales (the grand musical waters), the fountains “play” classical music from 11 a.m. to noon and from 3:30 to 5:30 p.m. For visitors to France’s most famous chateau, this is a delightful bonus experience not to be missed. Admission to the gardens is €8, free for children under the age of 10.

TIME FOR TEA – La Maison des Trois Thés
As if wine, perfume and chocolate weren’t enough, Paris is fast gaining the reputation of being one of the world’s tea capitals. Its most famous and exclusive teahouse, La Maison des Trois Thés, is tucked into the Latin Quarter near Place Monge and run by renowned tea expert, Yu Hui Tseng. In this serene and fragrant shop furnished with Chinese antiques and decorated with calligraphy-covered canisters, visiting tea lovers can enjoy tastings and expert guidance in choosing from nearly 500 Chinese and Taiwanese teas that include some of the rarest and most expensive in the world.

When Madame Tseng returns from her forays to China’s premier plantations, several top chefs in Paris are alerted and rush to her shop to purchase her newest discoveries to serve in their Michelin-starred restaurants. 1 rue St Médard, Paris 1st (Notre Dame/Latin Quarter)

ROOFTOP EATS & ALL NIGHT TREATS

ARTY ALL NIGHT LONG On Saturday, October 3, Paris will stay up all night delighting insomniacs and revelers with its Nuit Blanche, the annual city-wide art festival and street party. Nuit Blanche means “sleepless night” and from 7 p.m. to 7 a.m. night becomes day as more than 70 contemporary art “projects” take over several arrondissements, from theaters and inner courtyards to swimming pools, universities and city parks.

The art directors have selected works that will include video projections, light shows, and large-scale installations. The areas to visit: the 19th arrondissement in the northern section of the city; the Marais, through les Halles, the historical theaters of Place du Châtelet, and across the river to Notre-Dame in the center of Paris; and the Latin Quarter (Left Bank). Public transportation, on the RATP Line 11, will run all night. Last year the party drew 1.5 million celebrants and at least as many are expected to take part in art this Saturday.

FORK WITH A VIEW Not only does Nomiya Restaurant top the latest dining trend list, but it’s also situated on top of the Palais de Tokyo with the Eiffel Tower front and center and all of Paris glittering below. Part of Paris’ ArtHome (pronounced arôme) temporary establishments (the last one on this rooftop was a one-room hotel), Nomiya keeps its focus simple: provide a completely unique and memorable dining experience.

This tiny (Nomiya means “little bar” in Japanese), box-car sized and shaped restaurant features an open kitchen and communal table that seats only 12 lucky guests for lunch or dinner. The multi-course menu, set daily by Chef Gilles Stassart, a renowned master of both cuisine and fine wines, incorporates fresh organic produce from the rooftop garden into his wildly inventive dishes.

Prix-fixe lunch costs €60 and dinner €80. Included is a glass of champagne, wine pairings, coffee and mineral water. Reservations can only be made via an online lottery system 30 days in advance of the meal, at www.art-home-electrolux.com
Palais de Tokyo • 13, avenue du Président Wilson

MASTERPIECES BIG & SMALL

SHOPPING SPECIFICS
Leave it to Paris to come up with the idea of shops and eateries that focus on one item exclusively. “Mono-mania” isn’t just for Parisians – visitors are falling in love with this unique concept that makes shopping truly special. A few exclusive places for that single-minded traveler:

• L’Ours du Marais. Teddy Bear lovers and collectors will delight in this little shop that showcases an amazing assortment of bears (ours, pronounced oorse). French and international designers have created the creatures in all shapes and sizes, and from materials such as mohair and alpaca. 18 Rue Pavée, Paris 4th, close to the Place des Voges.

• Maison Fabre. Making gloves is a fine art in France and shoppers here will find tradition with a perfect fit. Secret dye methods, superb craftsmanship and beautiful French skins come in 180 models for men, women, and children. Gloves can also be made to exact measure. 128-129 Galerie de Valois, Paris 1st, beneath the arcades and gardens of the Palais-Royal

• Le Soufflé. A trendsetter and classic at the same time, this beloved spot has been serving both savory and sweet soufflés from foie gras to fraises (strawberries) for 40 years. 36 Rue du Mont-Thabor, Paris 1st, between the Place Vendôme and the Place de la Concorde

• Le Paradis du Fruitis (Fruit Paradise). Eminent designer Philippe Starck created an exotic shop for fruit flavor lovers. The décor alone is worth a look and the fruity menu provides a refreshing pause in the prestigious district of the Champs Élysées. 47 Avenue George-V, Paris 8
______________________________
RIVALRY AT THE LOUVRE
Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese: Rivals in Renaissance Venice
Louvre Museum. Through January 4, 2010

Fresh from its showing at Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts, which co-curated the exhibit, this fantastic display shows the similarities and fierce competition between three painting giants whose collective careers filled the entire 16th century. There are 57 works, many of them larger than life. The artists’ paintings are placed side by side according to the subject, making the similarities among them quite striking.

PARISIEN DELIGHTS – Picnics & Ballet Slippers!

DINING IN THE SKY 58 Tour Eiffel: The new day and night restaurant at the Eiffel Tower

Replacing the former Altitude 95, this chic new concept restaurant allows diners two very different experiences on the first level of the Eiffel Tower. A “picnic style” lunch is a conveniently quick way to enjoy one of the finest views in the world. Guests pick up a picnic basket, order drinks, then choose main dishes from an open, cafeteria-style kitchen and place them into the basket. At the table, the idea is to “picnic” on offerings such as seared salmon, asparagus salad, and gourmet hamburgers – with Paris at your feet! Reservations for lunch are not necessary and dining here means no wait at the bottom for an elevator.

In the evening, the same restaurant transforms into a lovely brasserie where haute cuisine (think steak tartare, foie gras and oysters) and the twinkling lights of Paris make for an ultimately memorable experience. Reservations are required and can be made online at toptable.com.

OPERA GARNIER: Shopping Hits a High Note

The opulent Opera Garnier – famed as the home of Phantom of the Opera and the theater where Degas was first inspired by ballet dancers – has been renovated to show off its exquisite architectural highlights. Now, opera and dance lovers can indulge their fantasies while shopping in the new gallery dedicated to lyrical and choreographic arts. Included in the unique shop, which caters to children and adults alike, is a selection of delightful Opera Garnier-related items such as honey from hives tended on the roof of the opera house, ballet tutus, Repetto ballet shoes, jewelry and creative accessories.

NOTE: Chocolatine offers a variety of personal shopping services in Paris.

A LETTER OF RECOMMENDATION

Dear Florent,

Mary Barbara and Andrea arrived home on Sunday and I have a note already from Mary Barbara. The trip was a huge success, from the hotel to the shopping. She enjoyed the outings to Versailles and the Loire Valley. The personal shopper that you found was a good choice and the first store she took them to was a success. She praised the guide and her excellent English and knowledge. Thank you and your staff for taking care of my special clients.

Gale Doherty, CTC
CASTO TRAVEL (San Francisco)


CHOCOLATINE provides a wide range of tailor-made touring arrangements for couples, families and friends exploring France together, or on their own. Whether on holiday, celebrating a special occasion, enjoying a honeymoon, or simply relaxing in a favorite city or town, we take care of all the details.

Contact us for special arrangements, tours and personalized services for your clients. www.chocolatine.biz • 1-866-200-8122
Florent Maillet, owner • florent@chocolatine.biz

September in Paris

CHCOLATINE SAYS…
WE LOVE PARIS IN THE FALL!





The autumn months offer a huge variety of events, exhibit openings and eclectic happenings in the City of Lights. Among them:

HERITAGE DAYS (Journées du Patrimoine)
September 19 & 20, 2009

IMPORTANT: There are 15,000 sites throughout France that will be open during these two days for free. You clients will likely experience long lines, so if you have the chance to alert them to this, it would be a good thing. Versailles, for instance, is one of the busiest places during this celebration.

A countrywide celebration of all things French occurs this coming weekend and Paris rolls out the royal welcome mat to the world. The event is a veritable showcase of culture and tradition, architecture, history and the arts. Every notable building, museum and monument throws open its door to the public for free.

Visitors who happen to be in Paris this Saturday and Sunday can explore the French President’s residence (the Palais de l’Elysée), the Senate, the National Assembly, City Hall, City Archives, almost every museum (including the Louvre and the Musée d’Orsay), Ste. Chapelle and Notre Dame, plus view performances at theatres and music centers in every arrondissement (neighborhood). There are also specially mapped routes – Architectural Heritage Trails – for anyone exploring the city on foot.

The idea for the national celebration dates back to 1983 when the Ministry of Culture held the first monuments “free open house.” Using this concept, the European Council reinstated Heritage Days in 1991.

(If you want to see a list of everything that’s open and free this weekend (and you can manage a little bit of French), the Web site “cityzeum.com/blog/paris” lists everything by arrondissement.


RENOIR IN THE 20TH CENTURY
Sept 23, 2009 – Jan. 4, 2010
Grand Palais, Paris

Approximately 100 of Renoir’s last decorative paintings, drawings and sculptures have been assembled from international collections for a major exhibition at the Grand Palais in Paris. Some of the portraits, large nudes and studies of models were once owned by Matisse and Picasso and, in parts of the exhibit, their own work – along with that of Bonnard and Maillol – is shown side by side with Renoir’s to visually illustrate his profound influence. This is not only the chance to see the last and boldest of Renoir’s work, but a unique opportunity to witness the artistic perspective of a 19th century master who set the bar for some of the 20th century’s most important artists.

Open daily (except Tuesdays) from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday: 10 a.m. 8 p.m.

---------------------------------

CHOCOLATINE provides a wide range of tailor-made touring arrangements for couples, families and friends exploring France together, or on their own. Whether on holiday, celebrating a special occasion, enjoying a honeymoon, or simply relaxing in a favorite city or town, we take care of all the details.

Contact us for special arrangements, tours and personalized services for your clients. www.chocolatine.biz • 1-866-200-8122
Florent Maillet, owner • florent@chocolatine.biz